Exploring weft knit fabric defects based on their presence and quality impact: A case study

Abstract

While addressing grey fabric quality in a renowned circular weft knitting mill of Bangladesh, the authors experienced some questionable approach practiced by knitters. The subjective nature of defect detection by knitters/inspectors often time causes wrong emphasizing on frequently occurring defect(s) instead of focusing on influential defect(s) and subsequently, employing wrong quality control approach to minimize the grey fabric defects. Knit fabric defects (e.g., hole, stain, press-off, gout, miss knit, barrè, tucking, etc.) should be assessed by type, fault coverage, gravity and the frequency of occurrence instead of focusing only on frequency of occurrence in the fabric. In this study, grey weft-knitted fabric quality is investigated based on influential defects instead of frequently occurring defects. Quality data of single jersey, fleece and 1X1 rib were gathered and analyzed from an established knitting factory in Bangladesh over three months duration. A fabric inspection machine and 4-point inspection method were employed in this study. Gout was found as the most frequently occurring defect for each fabric type but not influential for rib fabric. For a significant amount of knitted fabrics, totaling of 55,524.91 m² inspected fabric, the most occurring defects were ranked as gout, press-off, hole, miss knit, stain, and tucking and influential defects (based on inspection points) were ranked as gout, press-off, hole, stain, miss knit, and tucking (highest to lowest). In the inspection report, the knitter/inspector mistakenly categorized gout as the most occurring as well as the most influential defect for 1X1 rib fabrics and suggested remedies accordingly.